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Thread: 4 wheel disc brakes

  1. #1
    BLAZEMAN Ohio 4x4 Member
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    4 wheel disc brakes

    got a question about 4 wheel disc brake conversion. i am running 14ffb/d60 combo. wondering what mc works the best, and do i have to change the proportioning valve?

    also, i want to verify the brake line size from mc to proportioning valve, i know they are 2 different sizes.

    thanks, Lyle
    76/94 blazer 350/ 350 turbo/ 203 case
    d60/14bff / 4.10/ lincoln locked
    diy shackle flip/ 63" rear springs
    38.5/16 on 16x10 wheels.
    ballistic disc brake brackets/spring plates
    cross over/high steer from chassis unlimited
    borgeson steering components

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    don't skimp on this. you probably remember mad max. i had a supra master cylinder and toy truck booster on it with similar calipers to what you'll be using (1 ton front and i'm guessing full size blazer rear). i think it was 15/16" bore. it did not inspire confidence mashing the brake pedal stuck on the side of a hill. i finally swapped to a bronco/f150 booster with it's mount, and a 1 ton ford master. i had to cut a hole in the hood to fit it all and put a piece of metal over it to keep falling branches from hitting it. worked great except a harder pedal. i later found out that was only single diaphragm booster and assume that's most of the reason (not to mention bigger bore=less mechanical advantage to push the fluid, but i'm blaming the booster as newer ones are dual diaphragm which i saw somewhere have more "push" to them).
    i don't know what year your body is, but i just looked up a 77 k30 and a 92 or 93 "s" blazer, can't remember now. the k30 shows 1.25" (same as i remember my ford being). the "s" blazer showed......1.4". this is on autozone site. i'm having a bit of difficulty with whether that's a misprint or not, but if true, you may simply try what you have first if yours is the same.
    on the valve, once you have a good pedal, you'll just have to stomp the brakes on a gravel or snowy road to determine if you need to fool with using an adjustable valve. or just buy one now and be done with it.
    use adapters where needed and make all lines the same size. i made mine all 3/16"

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    I just finished converting my jeep to rear disc's not long ago. I had already converted to hydroboost, so clearance and assist isn't a problem. I'm using 85 J10 calipers on the front 44 and 85 Eldorado on the rear 44, using a astro van master cylinder, 1.25" bore and the stock jeep proportioning valve. The balance front to rear is acceptable, at first I thought I'd like a little more rear brake but after driving it on the road and trails I'm happy with it. Jeep grand Cherokees came with 4 wheel disc's and would be a possible donor for a proportioning valve. all the lines on my jeep are 3/16". I can check specs on napaprolink if you need numbers. Grabing a hydroboost system of a astro van maybe another option, pump, booster and MC. Good luck, Ron
    1990 YJ, 350 sbc, AX15/231, Tom Woods SYE & shaft, Dana 44's F&R, 5.13's, detroit lockers, 3.5" springs, 1"bl, 1/2" boom shackles, 35" MTR's, Warn 8274, overland bound member #3644

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    Chevy D60 front with stock calipers, 14FF rear with 1/2 ton front calipers from the 80's era (same outer dimensions as 3/4 ton front calipers) and 3/4 ton rotors. My '90 K5 came stock with hydroboost brakes and I have done nothing to the system besides remove the rear wheel ABS crap. Never had any issue with the brakes and they will slow down the 39.5x15 tires pretty quick. A lot of people with this setup on K5's with vacuum brakes report acceptable performance with the stock 1/2 ton master cylinder and booster, while some prefer to upgrade to a 3/4 or 1 ton master cylinder for a little more power.

    If you have the stock S-10 stuff I would bolt it together and see how it works first, then go from there.
    Brad
    '90 Blazer - 6.2 diesel, 700r4, Dana 60, 14 bolt, locked, 39.5" Super Swamper TSLs, winch, rollcage, yada, yada, yada......

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    Napa list the blazer with hyd and diesel with a 30mm or 1.18" master cylinder. the 94 blazer is listed with a 24mm or .94", I'd opt for a 1.25 bore master cylinder. Ron
    1990 YJ, 350 sbc, AX15/231, Tom Woods SYE & shaft, Dana 44's F&R, 5.13's, detroit lockers, 3.5" springs, 1"bl, 1/2" boom shackles, 35" MTR's, Warn 8274, overland bound member #3644

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    BLAZEMAN Ohio 4x4 Member
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    thanks for the info. everyone! the components that I have right now is 1 ton frt. calipers, 1/2-3/4 ton calipers from the frt. being used on the rear. proportioning valve from the donor 76 k5 blazer. I did have the m.c. from the 94 s-10 blazer, but exchanged it for a m.c. for a 79 k30. what throws me off, is the 2 different thread sizes on both the m.c. and the proportioning valve.

    I guess what I will do is put it together, using 3/16" line from m.c. to proportioning valve, and see how they work from there. Worst case is that I will have to use an adjustable proportioning valve.
    76/94 blazer 350/ 350 turbo/ 203 case
    d60/14bff / 4.10/ lincoln locked
    diy shackle flip/ 63" rear springs
    38.5/16 on 16x10 wheels.
    ballistic disc brake brackets/spring plates
    cross over/high steer from chassis unlimited
    borgeson steering components

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    BLAZEMAN Ohio 4x4 Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad View Post
    Chevy D60 front with stock calipers, 14FF rear with 1/2 ton front calipers from the 80's era (same outer dimensions as 3/4 ton front calipers) and 3/4 ton rotors. My '90 K5 came stock with hydroboost brakes and I have done nothing to the system besides remove the rear wheel ABS crap. Never had any issue with the brakes and they will slow down the 39.5x15 tires pretty quick. A lot of people with this setup on K5's with vacuum brakes report acceptable performance with the stock 1/2 ton master cylinder and booster, while some prefer to upgrade to a 3/4 or 1 ton master cylinder for a little more power.

    If you have the stock S-10 stuff I would bolt it together and see how it works first, then go from there.
    might try the hydro boost, if this setup doesn't work well
    76/94 blazer 350/ 350 turbo/ 203 case
    d60/14bff / 4.10/ lincoln locked
    diy shackle flip/ 63" rear springs
    38.5/16 on 16x10 wheels.
    ballistic disc brake brackets/spring plates
    cross over/high steer from chassis unlimited
    borgeson steering components

  8. #8
    Member Ohio 4x4 Member
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    Any good auto parts store will have a selection of line nuts. One of my MC lines was originally 1/4", so I got a nut the same size but for a 3/16' line. I'd take the MC and prop valve to the parts store and get the correct nuts vice using adapters. Each extra coupling is another leak point. Ron
    1990 YJ, 350 sbc, AX15/231, Tom Woods SYE & shaft, Dana 44's F&R, 5.13's, detroit lockers, 3.5" springs, 1"bl, 1/2" boom shackles, 35" MTR's, Warn 8274, overland bound member #3644

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