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Thread: Oil pressure loss in truck

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    Oil pressure loss in truck

    2003 Chevy 2500HD 6.0L. I towed my 8,500 lb. Blazer and trailer 200 miles this weekend and drove it back and forth to work each day. Yesterday evening I park the truck, this morning I fire it up and within a few seconds it starts chiming and the display says "low oil pressure". The gauge basically reads zero.

    Hmmm, the gauges on these things always screw up (I'm getting ready to change the stepper motor on the speedo) and some people report the sending unit or wiring going bad. I cycle the key a few times and nothing changes. Slowly drive around the block and sure enough it starts knocking so I immediately turn the engine off. So much for just an electrical gremlin.

    Pretty sure it's the oil pump itself as it's the only explanation for the engine running fine with plenty of oil pressure the day before and suddenly no oil pressure the next morning. The problem is that just pulling the oil pan requires removing the front diff, and then getting to the oil pump requires removing the water pump and front cover. So I bite the bullet and send it to a shop........at least I hope it's only the oil pump.
    Brad
    '90 Blazer - 6.2 diesel, 700r4, Dana 60, 14 bolt, locked, 39.5" Super Swamper TSLs, winch, rollcage, yada, yada, yada......

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    Wow, that's a good heads up. I've been looking to replace my 88 3/4 ton with an '03-05 2500 HD. Good news is that it pulls your Blazer and trailer w/o problems. Any other points for/against the 2500 HD?
    '01 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0 L Auto, 78 Dodge Dana 60/70 with 4.88 gears, ARB front, Lincoln locked rear, Dana 300 transfer case, 4 link upper triangulated front and rear, 4 inch lift, 38.5 boggers rear, TSL-SX front, tube fenders, rock sliders, Bilstein shocks, 1.25" BBL, 1" MML, Warn M8000, fuel cell, custom drive shafts, belly up skidplate.
    '00 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0L, standard, dana 30/ dana 44 with chromoly axle shafts, ARB lockers front/rear, 35" tires
    '04 Chevy 2500 HD
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    That sucks Brad...I just read your post. Post what you find out.
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
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    That is pretty insane.. removing the front diff to access the oil pan!?! Is the front IFS? Hopefully it is just the oil pump. My only other thoughts are that the oil pickup screen is possibly clogged (unlikely) or the oil pickup tube is not connected (unlikely).
    -Brent
    '89 YJ - 4.0L/AW4/231/HP60/60/37's

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    The shop confirmed it was the oil pump and are planning on having back together tomorrow. The water pump has been leaking slightly so it's getting replaced at the same time, which requires very little extra labor. The Haynes manual also recommends dropping the Y-pipe and starter just for removing the oil pan, though several people on the web said you can get by without those items but the diff is mandatory.

    Overall I've been happy with the truck and would recommend it to anyone. The 6.0L get's the job done towing but I do need to run it pretty hard to maintain speed on hills, but again it's 8,500 lbs. and a lot of wind resistance. The diesel would be nice but no way could I justify the extra $6,000 for towing every couple of months. I bought it new and it has around 105k on the clock and this is the first major repair it has needed.
    Brad
    '90 Blazer - 6.2 diesel, 700r4, Dana 60, 14 bolt, locked, 39.5" Super Swamper TSLs, winch, rollcage, yada, yada, yada......

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    Hopefully this didn't hurt the engine much if any. It had a slight exhaust tick before and I swear it's either worse or a new tick. Need to put a manual pressure gauge on it as I don't trust the factory gauge (which shows almost 40 psi at idle).
    Brad
    '90 Blazer - 6.2 diesel, 700r4, Dana 60, 14 bolt, locked, 39.5" Super Swamper TSLs, winch, rollcage, yada, yada, yada......

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