Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Trailer fender protection

  1. #1
    Senior Member Ohio 4x4 Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    Flint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Minford, Ohio
    Posts
    1,011
    Rep Power
    15

    Trailer fender protection

    Geese this project is making a lot of work in lots of ways I hadn't planned. I measured outside of wheel to outside of wheel and found I had 1.5" to spare between the trailer fenders. That was before I had to add 2" adapters to the wheels. That 4" addition puts my rear tires into the fenders.

    I am thinking of building a 2x4 ramp at the fender well and drive over the fenders. I am also considering cutting off the fenders and modifing them to bolt on after the rig is in place.

    I'd appreciate any suggestions.
    Thanks in advance.
    Tony
    '01 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0 L Auto, 78 Dodge Dana 60/70 with 4.88 gears, ARB front, Lincoln locked rear, Dana 300 transfer case, 4 link upper triangulated front and rear, 4 inch lift, 38.5 boggers rear, TSL-SX front, tube fenders, rock sliders, Bilstein shocks, 1.25" BBL, 1" MML, Warn M8000, fuel cell, custom drive shafts, belly up skidplate.
    '00 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0L, standard, dana 30/ dana 44 with chromoly axle shafts, ARB lockers front/rear, 35" tires
    '04 Chevy 2500 HD
    Tow Rig and farm truck

  2. #2
    Senior Member Ohio 4x4 Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    SHAKEnBLAKE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Columbus
    Posts
    1,068
    Rep Power
    13
    I don't trailer my rig, but I would think that anything that has to be removed and then replaced would get old pretty quick. Then again, it might be the safest way in case you somehow broke something and the rig would have trouble driving over the fenders. So I guess I have no valuable input...
    -Joe
    1996 Dakota 318



  3. #3
    Super Moderator Ohio 4x4 Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    SES's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    "Springhole", Ohio
    Posts
    3,875
    Rep Power
    30
    Tony,

    Hopefully Brad or Roy will post up a picture of what they have done. IMO, their approach is the most simple, can be removed easily, and doesn't involve re-fabricating the fenders or strengthening them.

    They used either 4x4's or 6x6's stacked right at the inside of the ramps that end up being taller than the ramp. They also beveled the ends of the wood so that there was a gradual transition up to the top of the wood above the trailer fenders and then down the other side.

    My suggestion would be to try what they have done. If you don't like it you can always do somethign different after you have the bugs worked out of the Jeep.

    Later!

    Steve
    Steve Stroud
    1987 Ford Samurai "Junkyard Dog"
    14 bolt rear welded / Hp 60 front air locker / 5.38 gears
    4-link upper triangulated rear/ 3-link front
    5.0 Ford/C6/bw 1356 doubler/np205 twin sticked
    38.5 TSL SX
    H1 Double Beadlocked Rims

    "Don't hate the player......Hate the game!!!!!"

    "I live my life one trail at a time!" ............Ben Stroud

  4. #4
    Moderator / Life Member Moderator
    Sr. Forum Member

    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    3,544
    Rep Power
    2120
    Both of the above posts are correct.

    From the very start my Blazer has always been wider than any trailer "between the fenders" available without going to a deckover. Back in '04 when I first bought my trailer I thought about it awhile and decided to cut up some wood 4x4's. Stacking them 3 high puts them about 1/2" above the top of the fender on my trailer. A couple of 2x4's placed verticle holds them together on one side. Then drilled a couple of holes through the 4x4's and into the verticle surface of the fender and bolted them on (it's just thin steel, but it's only there to keep the wood from falling off the trailer). I then traced out the ends of the 4x4's so them matched the contours of the fenders and made a "ramp".

    Don't get me wrong as this was a quick and simple solution that took me maybe an hour to do including deciding what to do. The 4x4's came out of the construction dumpster of the house they were building next door.

    I had always planned to build something out of steel to replace these but after 6 years it hasn't been moved far enough up my list.

    Pros: cheap, easy, and removing 2 bolts allows them to be taken off the trailer. Also extra work is required to load or unload...drive drive the truck up on it and strap it down. However the Blazer can't go on the trailer with them removed. On my particular setup the loading position is perfect as you pull the rear tires up against the fender ramps.

    Cons: could be a major PITA to load or unload a vehicle if it was disabled. Requires 4wd on mine (never tried it in 2wd but pretty easy to tell it would be very difficult). I've gone through the process of loading and unloading the Blazer with no steering and one front broken axleshaft (so 3wd). With it lined up okay there was no issue loading it, but it was a major pain unloading. In the rain with a wet steel trailer deck the back end wanted to spin and slide sideways when the front tires hit the fender ramps, and couldn't correct it with no steering.

    My eventual plans (which probably won't happen until after I have an issue) is to make the fenders removable or pivot/fold outwards for emergencies. Then build a nice set of removable fender ramps from steel. The idea is to be able to unbolt the ramps if I need to load a car or something else on the trailer, and be able to remove the ramps and fenders to load the Blazer if something major happens.
    Brad
    '90 Blazer - 6.2 diesel, 700r4, Dana 60, 14 bolt, locked, 39.5" Super Swamper TSLs, winch, rollcage, yada, yada, yada......

  5. #5
    Senior Member Ohio 4x4 Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    Flint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Minford, Ohio
    Posts
    1,011
    Rep Power
    15
    Joe, I agree about the fender removal being a PITA... but I'm going to check out the plausibility anyway. It may be necessary to take them off if the jeep is disabled.

    Steve, good points in your comments, specially the timing. I'm thinking stacked 2x6's for the ramp because it will be easy, quick and cheap.

    Brad,
    Great post. I am thinking of using 2x6 treated and making the ramp tall and sloped enough to clear the fenders. Then I'll nail the 2x6's together and lag screw the ramps in place. The only thing I haul on my trailer is the TJ so leaving them in place isn't a problem. If I need to remove them I'll just back out the lag screws. I'm not sure about bolting into the fenders. Do the ramps seem to need lateral stability? If they do I might go with wider lumber to make the ramps.

    Great points about getting a busted rig back on the trailer. I will look into what it will take to remove the fenders. The trailer is 3 years old and in good shape. I would hate to have to crush the fenders just to get a rig on the trailer. I saw a set of replacement fenders at TSC that looked alot alike. They had 4 tabs for the install so I'm hoping it will be simple.

    I don't have a good pull point on the front. I stap the rig in with anchor points along the sides. If I had to winch onto the trailer I'd have to pull anchored to the tow rig. Easiest for me would be to mount a pair of D rings onto the wooden deck but I doubt the long term security as an anchor point. Welding D rings to the frame of the trailer sounds better to me. Any comments there?

    Thanks.
    '01 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0 L Auto, 78 Dodge Dana 60/70 with 4.88 gears, ARB front, Lincoln locked rear, Dana 300 transfer case, 4 link upper triangulated front and rear, 4 inch lift, 38.5 boggers rear, TSL-SX front, tube fenders, rock sliders, Bilstein shocks, 1.25" BBL, 1" MML, Warn M8000, fuel cell, custom drive shafts, belly up skidplate.
    '00 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4.0L, standard, dana 30/ dana 44 with chromoly axle shafts, ARB lockers front/rear, 35" tires
    '04 Chevy 2500 HD
    Tow Rig and farm truck

  6. #6
    Moderator / Life Member Moderator
    Sr. Forum Member

    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    3,544
    Rep Power
    2120
    I think the ramps need some lateral stability, but screwing them to the deck would probably be enough. Slopes the ends as much as possible for a more gradual ramp to make it easier to drive over (versus acting like a wheel chock).
    Brad
    '90 Blazer - 6.2 diesel, 700r4, Dana 60, 14 bolt, locked, 39.5" Super Swamper TSLs, winch, rollcage, yada, yada, yada......

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. YJ Fender Flares
    By Gasturbine in forum For Sale
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-20-2008, 12:48 PM
  2. WTB YJ fender
    By AcousticRawk in forum Parts Needed
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 07-28-2008, 09:50 PM
  3. yj fender flares
    By jay in forum For Sale
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-01-2008, 11:46 PM
  4. Replies: 9
    Last Post: 04-29-2006, 11:38 PM
  5. Replies: 9
    Last Post: 09-28-2004, 11:12 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •