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Thread: 1993 Jeep Cherokee: Clean, Lifted, Locked, 4.0, AX-15, Dana 44, HP30 $2799

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    1993 Jeep Cherokee: Clean, Lifted, Locked, 4.0, AX-15, Dana 44, HP30 $2799

    1993 Jeep Cherokee: Clean, Lifted, Locked, 4.0, AX-15, Dana 44, HP30 $2799

    Drivetrain-----
    Engine: 4.0 HO efi
    Transmission: AX-15 5 speed
    Transfer case: NP-231
    Front axle: HP D30, TJ axle shafts, Spicer 760 joints (welded into axles), Aussie locker.
    Rear axle: 1987 XJ Dana 44, Welded diff
    Wheels: 15x7 aluminum.
    Tires: Nearly new 34x10.5 R15 LTB Swampers.

    Engine details---The Jeep has 249K miles on it. I do not know if the engine has ever been rebuilt. It sounds very good. I’ve heard a lot of 4.0 engines that sound like a diesel and continue to run fine for years. This engine does not sound like a diesel. It sounds good, has excellent power, does not smoke, and carries excellent oil pressure. Over 60 psi at idle cold. Over 20 psi at idle hot. The engine runs cool. The rear seal doesn’t gush oil like a lot of these are known to do. The electric fan kicks off & on when it should. Brand new Duralast Gold battery. I do not have any concerns about the reliability of this engine.

    Trans details---The transmission shifts fine. It does not grind in any gear or make any bad sounds. The clutch is fine. It is strong and does not slip in any gear. The clutch cylinder is good and does not leak. I do not have any concerns about the reliability of the transmission.

    T-case details---The transfer case works fine. It works in 2 hi, 4 hi, and 4 lo, just as it should. I do not have any concerns about the reliability of the transfer case.

    D30 details---The front axle has new U-joints, a new (not used) Aussie locker, new unit bearings, good brakes, and a good steering linkage. I do not have any concerns about the reliability of the front axle, or anything attached to it.

    D44 details—Welded differential. It was welded by the only guy that I ever pay to weld anything for me. Nothing that he has ever welded has failed for me. I do not have any concerns about the reliability of the rear Dana 44.

    Gears—The axles are geared 3.07. This isn’t ideal, however it is not nearly the issue that I thought it would be. With the low end grunt of the 4.0, and any idea of how to drive a manual trans equipped trail rig, you will be fine for all trails other than rock gardens.

    Wheel & tire details—The light weight aluminum wheels are easier on parts. Is that why I bought them? No, I bought them because they were cheap and they fit. I prefer narrow wheels due to better bead retention. I ran these tires at 10 psi front/rear for most trail use. I have had them as low as 8 psi front and 6 psi rear, and they do not come off the bead. The spare tire is a stock 225/75 R15 mounted on a stock Jeep wheel, which is mounted in the stock location in the rear hatch. Included in the purchase with this vehicle is two used 33" MT’s that have over 50% tread and would be ideal for spares. Regarding the condition of the tires, the logo on the outer tread blocks is still visible. The tires may have some trail scuffs, but none have been patched or plugged.

    Suspension & Undercarriage-----The Jeep has a 5.5" lift on it. The control arms are stock. This may not be ideal, but it works fine. I have driven this vehicle up to at least 60 mph, and it was not a scary ride. It has Skyjacker coils, drop pitman arm, and a drop trac-bar. The rear has add-a leaves and a 1.5" lift block. I have driven this vehicle up rock ledges that have broken much more expensive rigs. The point is that it does not have any rear axle wrap issues. I do not have any concerns about the reliability of the suspension. The entire floor of this vehicle has been beefed up with thicker than stock steel. I’d be willing to bet that the floor of this vehicle is stronger than a stock OEM floor. I also had 1/8" plates welded from the pinch seam to the front spring hanger for additional strength. The vehicle has a solid front tow point. The front has a 10K tow hook bolted to the "frame rail" part of the unibody on the driver side. There is also a tow hook bolted to the passenger side of the front bumper that was there when I bought the Jeep. I did not remove it, however, I highly recommend using the one that is bolted to the "frame rail" part of the unibody for a hard pull. This is common sense, but I wanted to mention it. The vehicle has a solid rear tow point. There is a very beefy new trailer hitch installed on the rear of the Jeep. I researched every hitch available for this vehicle in order to find the strongest one (8 mounting bolts vs. 6) and more importantly the one that had the best ground clearance. I installed a solid steel HD 6" drop towing device upside down to act as a slider when driving off rocks and as a shackle mount. The hitch is included. The 6" drop towing device is not included. It is shown so you have an idea of how I wheeled it. It may look odd, but it works. I do not have any concerns about the reliability/strength/safety of the undercarriage or suspension of this vehicle.

    Exterior details—OEM blue paint. The vehicle has never been wrecked or repainted to the best of my knowledge. The front fenders are trimmed. The doors have some dings, but aren’t bad. The driver quarter panel has a small dent behind the driver side door. The hatch is fine. The windshield does not have any cracks. There are brush/trail scratches on every panel. This is best used as a trail rig, not a chick magnet, but if you buy it, you are free to use it as you wish. The driver quarter window is made of Lexan, because I broke the glass on a trail ride. I have a matching Lexan passenger quarter window already cut and ready to install. I actually carry it under the rear seat of my tow rig. I have no plans to install it until I break the passenger side glass. Also included is two OEM quarter glass windows. In case you are wondering, the Lexan windows were made professionally, not cobbled by me. I took the OEM quarter windows to Modern Glass of Zanesville, and had them cut two Lexan pieces to match. They fit perfectly in the OEM weatherstripping/molding, as I installed the driver side by my self without any problems. Due to the inevitable trail damage that will occur, I also bought another good used driver door, another good used passenger door, and a complete rear hatch with glass. All of these spare parts are included in the purchase price (if you want them).

    Interior details—The interior is gray. Nothing is missing. The seats aren’t ripped. The carpet isn’t bad. I wouldn’t want to eat off of the interior pieces in this vehicle, but they are fine for a trail rig. The headlights work. The fog lights work. The speedometer works. The tachometer works. The volt gauge works. The oil pressure gauge works. The temperature gauge works. The fuel gauge works. The dash lights work. The horn works but sounds weak. The CD player works, but doesn’t light up correctly. The seats slide back & forth properly. The seat belts work. In summary, everything is functional.

    Rough idea of the cost to build a similar rig:
    $1000 for a stock Cherokee
    $800 for the 5.5" lift kit
    $400 for the rear Dana 44
    $300 for the front Aussie locker
    $200 for the front wheel bearings
    $200 for the TJ ABS shafts + new Spicer joints
    $150 for the trailer hitch
    $150 for the 4x8 sheet of 1/8" steel
    $600 for the 34" LTB’s
    $100 for the brand new battery
    $100 for the CD player
    $100 for the Lexan Windows
    $300 for the spare doors, spare hatch, spare glass
    $100 for the spare axle shafts & rear drive shaft

    That is $4500, and that does not include any labor whatsoever.

    Why is this vehicle a good deal? I may be biased here, but I’ll tell you my opinion.
    1. It is not a cobbled POS.
    2. It has a stronger rear axle that 99% of other XJ’s, TJ’s, YJ’s, CJ’s on the trail.
    3. It already has dual lockers (at least the equivalent), and excellent tires.
    4. It will often out perform a similarly equipped CJ, TJ, YJ due to it’s wheelbase.
    5. It is a Jeep without a Dana 35 rear axle.
    6. It comes with spare front axle shafts, rear drive shaft, two doors and a hatch assembly.
    7. It won’t win a show & shine contest, but it doesn’t make one vomit when looking at it.
    8. You don’t have to get your hands dirty building the vehicle.
    9. While not ideal for a DD, it is road worthy as is.
    10. You can own it for less than $2800.

    The pictures in this link were taken on Saturday April 4, 2009 at approximately 5:00 pm.

    The pictures in this link were taken on Saturday April 4, 2009 at approximately 5:00 pm.

























    Trades: If you have a nearly mint 1994-1996 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham (I prefer black cherry first, white second, black third) I’m interested. If you don’t have one of those, I’m most likely not interested in trading However, if you have something that I could sell for more than what I’m asking for this, I’d consider it. No boats, hot tubs, slip-n-slides, etc....I can’t swim.

    I have given a detailed description. I will be happy to answer any questions...as long as you take the time to read the description prior to asking them.


    Price: $2799.00 cash.
    Location: Philo, OH 43771

    Thanks,
    Roy
    Last edited by Roy; 04-04-2009 at 11:09 PM.
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

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    Deposit received by Corey B. Sale pending.
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

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    This is a very capable rig for $2800. I wheeled a cherokee when I first joined the club and anyone interested in this will be able to take it on ALL of the club rides and many of the off-club rides and do well with it.

    Put a set of tcase gears/doubler/diff gears ( one will do it) and you could even run this through rock gardens....or technical trails.

    Do I get paid or a case of Steel Reserve (yuk!) from Roy for saying this.....Nope!

    That said.....this will make a good trail rig for cheap for someone.....


    Note: my comma key is broken on my keyboard....so I must resort to the ... in place of it.
    Steve Stroud
    1987 Ford Samurai "Junkyard Dog"
    14 bolt rear welded / Hp 60 front air locker / 5.38 gears
    4-link upper triangulated rear/ 3-link front
    5.0 Ford/C6/bw 1356 doubler/np205 twin sticked
    38.5 TSL SX
    H1 Double Beadlocked Rims

    "Don't hate the player......Hate the game!!!!!"

    "I live my life one trail at a time!" ............Ben Stroud

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    Thanks Steve!
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

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    Sold.

    I explained this site to the guy that bought this vehicle. He is a good dude. His name is Corey. His girlfriend was nice, his dad was nice, and his buddy was OK too.....we may be seeing some of them on the trail in the near future in the XJ. He registered last night...his username is 93XJ or vice versa.

    Roy
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roy View Post
    his username is 93XJ or vice versa.
    Should I make a motion at the meeting tonight to grant him the username "disposable wheeler"?

    Later,
    REX
    1984 CJ7, SOA, Spring Reversal, 258I6 bored .030 over, pulling cam, Webber Carb, Electric Fuel Pump, D44 Aussie Locker 4340 shafts 300M u-joints Front, FORD8.8 mini spool Rear, 4.56 Gears, Rear Ladder Bar, hand throttle, twin stick t-case, 33x12.50x15 Boggers, winch

  7. #7
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    If at all possible I'd rather not have that username lol. I figure if the body gets beat up I'll just buy a newer xj and swap over the lift and whatever parts I want and dispose of the wreckage

  8. #8
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    not sure if you made an intro thread, but: welcome to the site!
    -Joe
    1996 Dakota 318



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