Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: Purge Cooling System?

  1. #1
    Life Members Ohio 4x4 Life Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    fourxfanatictroy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Elida, OH
    Posts
    553
    Rep Power
    18

    Purge Cooling System?

    Have '90 F250 HD 2wd with 5.8L EFI. I replaced the water pump recently. What is the proper way to purge the entire system, including the heater, of any possible air? If I have to open a heater hose, which one specificly?

    Thanks! TROY

  2. #2
    Moderator/Life Member Moderator
    Sr. Forum Member
    Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Philo, OH
    Posts
    5,665
    Rep Power
    30
    I haven't had to purge the cooling system on any of the Ford's I've had. What is it doing? Overheating, I assume, but I don't know??? I have back-flushed the cooling system on several, with the Prestone kit from a parts store.....cut one of the heater hoses, add the "T" and hook up a garden hose....and then look at all of the nasty brown stuff comimg out of the radiator filler area.

    Tell me what it's doing, and I can give you my two cents worth of advice.....tomorrow.

    Roy
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

  3. #3
    Super Moderator Ohio 4x4 Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    SES's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    "Springhole", Ohio
    Posts
    3,875
    Rep Power
    30

    purge system

    Troy,

    Hey! I've go the axles all together with perches and all and ready to bolt in. I even welded up the rear and have it all together now. Again, thanks for the great deal!

    As far as purging, like Roy said, I don't usually have to purge these. If I remember correctly they have a small line running from the top of the cooling system to the radiator inlet. If you watch it with the cap off as you run it a little bit(while you are adding more coolant to it when you first start it) you should see little air bubbles coming out of that line between the stream of water.

    When the stream of water gets constant with no bubbles you are good to go.

    If yours is the earlier one that doesn't have that then you can use the prestone flush kit that you put into the heater hose. Just crack the lid on that till it quits burbling and starts to push fluid out.

    That's what I do. Have never had a problem so far.

    Oh, turn the heater on high when filling it and letting it warm up a little to work the air out of the heater core. Again, I agree with Roy. These are pretty good systems on their own for self-bleeding.

    Steve
    Steve Stroud
    1987 Ford Samurai "Junkyard Dog"
    14 bolt rear welded / Hp 60 front air locker / 5.38 gears
    4-link upper triangulated rear/ 3-link front
    5.0 Ford/C6/bw 1356 doubler/np205 twin sticked
    38.5 TSL SX
    H1 Double Beadlocked Rims

    "Don't hate the player......Hate the game!!!!!"

    "I live my life one trail at a time!" ............Ben Stroud

  4. #4
    Moderator / Life Member Moderator
    Sr. Forum Member

    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    3,543
    Rep Power
    2120
    When refilling the cooling system I usually just remove the radiator cap and fill it up. Then start the engine and let it run for awhile.......most likely you will see the fluid level go down, especially after the engine warms up enough for the thermostat to open. You usually just need to keep filling it up until the coolant level remains constant.
    Brad
    '90 Blazer - 6.2 diesel, 700r4, Dana 60, 14 bolt, locked, 39.5" Super Swamper TSLs, winch, rollcage, yada, yada, yada......

  5. #5
    Life Members Ohio 4x4 Life Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    fourxfanatictroy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Elida, OH
    Posts
    553
    Rep Power
    18
    Yeah, what you guys have said is basically what I've always done. The only reason I asked is because I always read directions to make sure I'm not missing something, and they had bold face capital print stateing to purge the system.

    No, I don't have any overheating problems. The problem is I show normal temperature, but the heater only puts out minimal heat. It was like this before the new pump. I froze my butt off last winter and I don't plan to again this year. I had the coolant system professionally flushed by a local dealer last January before the new engine went in. I thought maybe the heater core was crapped up.

    A buddy told me that air can get trapped in the heater part of the system and block the flow. However, both heater lines seem hot to me.

    My repair manual told me to check the temperature slide control, but that seemed fine to me as I understood it.

  6. #6
    Moderator/Life Member Moderator
    Sr. Forum Member
    Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Philo, OH
    Posts
    5,665
    Rep Power
    30
    While it may sound silly, it happened to me: When I swapped an engine in my old pile of a Bronco, it had minimal heat, even with a 195 thermostat. Most engines have a 5/8" heater hose and a 3/4" heater hose (and generally they are of different lengths) that are easy to put back "where they belong." The Bronco had the same size hoses, and they were of pretty much equal length. I switched them out of curiosity (when tracking down the lack of adequate heat problem) and waalaa.....I still had a turd Bronco....but one with a damn good heater. :D

    While I doubt this :roll: is your problem, I'd check it out. If the thermostat is functioning as it should...well what does the temp gauge read...well on a Ford, which letter is it on N-O-R-M-A-L or below the letter range?

    If the engine is registering in the proper temperature range, generally on the "O" or "R".....no this is not one of Ford's better ideas......you likely have a bad heater core. I replaced the blower motor on my old '84 F-150 that I used to wheel, and it was very easy....but that truck did not have A/C. I replaced the heater core on an '85 F-150 I used to have......it was very easy....but it didn't have A/C. The heater core could be plugged, but most often they start to leak, leaving a pleasant aroma of antifreeze coming from the interior vents....or puking all over the passenger side floor-board.

    Regarding the temperature slide control: Does it move with some resistance? It should. Does it bind at any point in it's travel? I've had a couple do this in the past. Generally, you can look on the passenger side of the firewall area (under the hood) and see the wire mechanism that controls the air flow to the heater core. If you can find this, push it all the way to the left, and see what the heater does. Then push it all the way to the right and re-test. If it is hooked up properly, the interior control panel lever should move when you piddle with it under the hood.

    If you have any other information, let me know. Hopefully I can give you some useful advice before you go digging into the passenger side firewall/glovebox area (not fun) or paying a shop to do it (physically painless, but not fun when you get the bill).

    Roy
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

  7. #7
    Life Members Ohio 4x4 Life Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    fourxfanatictroy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Elida, OH
    Posts
    553
    Rep Power
    18
    Hey Roy,

    I put a new thermostat in the old engine and still got poor heat. The new engine got another new thermo and still poor heat.

    The coolant temp. sensor revealed itself as bad just before I installed the water pump so it's new now too. The temp. gage used to read fairly low, but now just touches the "o".

    The reversed heater hose deal is interesting. It's possible those guys switched them. At the firewall is a left and right hose. Where should each trace back to?

    My 79 Bronco had the cable temp control that you described and I had to zip tie it open for heat when the cable broke. Guess I should of mentioned that my 90 F250 is all vaccum controlled.

    I've had leaky heater cores in past vehicles. I saw the fluid trails on the inside passenger firewall and/or mist on defrost. I'm not seeing any of this in the F250. If it does come down to the heater core I'll probably pay a garage for the aggravation, and even that will be aggravating!

  8. #8
    Moderator/Life Member Moderator
    Sr. Forum Member
    Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Philo, OH
    Posts
    5,665
    Rep Power
    30
    Troy:

    One goes to the water pump. I'm getting ready to take Bowser (my Beagle dog) out to water the lawn. I'll venture into the garage and see where they go on the '88 F-250 with a 351 (should be identical to yours). I'll get back with you soon.

    Roy
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

  9. #9
    Moderator/Life Member Moderator
    Sr. Forum Member
    Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Philo, OH
    Posts
    5,665
    Rep Power
    30
    The lawn was fertilized, not watered for those who care .

    Anyway, back to the real issue here:

    The LEFT hose goes to the front of the WATER PUMP.
    The RIGHT hose connects to a piece of pipe/tubing BEHIND THE ALTERNATOR. I'm pretty sure that this pipe ends up at the manifold. Also, the hoses were of the same diameter....looked like 5/8"s and the front one is a little longer, but not a lot.

    See if yours is setup the same way. It definitely wouldn't hurt the simply switch the hoses at the passenger side firewall....just to see if it helps.....very easy access to them on my truck in the garage. Let me know if yours is setup like mine.

    If this doesn't work, I dont know of anything other than the heater core that could be the problem. Keep me informed.

    Roy
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

  10. #10
    Life Members Ohio 4x4 Life Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    fourxfanatictroy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Elida, OH
    Posts
    553
    Rep Power
    18
    Well! Well! Welll! My hoses are connected opposite of your description! Guess what I'll be trying tomorrow.

    Thanks for all the input. I'll post the results.

  11. #11
    Life Members Ohio 4x4 Life Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    km4x4junker's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    629
    Rep Power
    22
    roy--thank u 4 the fertilizer image
    troy, u said u're truck was vacuum controlled--r u sure the air doors are moving when u switch to heat? roy may have a better idea exactly where it is or how to tell--the vacuum servo could be screwed up (or vacuum line may have come off of it or gotten kinked--if servo easy to get to, make sure it is moving when switching the heat, check for vacuum if it isn't--if no vacuum, find out why--if it is moving. trace the linkage to see where it goes and make sure the air door is moving also--may even pop off linkage and manually move the door to see if makes a difference)--just another suggestion if the hose swap doesn't work b4 buying a core.....
    didn't u have something elsewhere asking about bleeding the system? the heat didn't work b4 the water pump replacement or whatever it was did it? if it did work, u may still just have air in the system....

  12. #12
    Moderator/Life Member Moderator
    Sr. Forum Member
    Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Philo, OH
    Posts
    5,665
    Rep Power
    30
    Troy: What did you find out?
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

  13. #13
    Life Members Ohio 4x4 Life Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    fourxfanatictroy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Elida, OH
    Posts
    553
    Rep Power
    18
    I think there's some improvement since switching the hoses. Tomorrow morning will be a good test since it will be freezing out.

  14. #14
    Moderator/Life Member Moderator
    Sr. Forum Member
    Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Philo, OH
    Posts
    5,665
    Rep Power
    30
    Tonight while cleaning up the off-road truck, I noted that the hoses are the same as the '88 Ford. Water pump hose goes to the left, manifold hose goes to the right. Let me know how it acts tomorrow.

    Roy
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

  15. #15
    Life Members Ohio 4x4 Life Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    fourxfanatictroy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Elida, OH
    Posts
    553
    Rep Power
    18
    Well, not much better. It used to put out slightly warm air, now it's slightly warmer. It took the chill off this morning but nothing impressive. A good heater should heat the cab until you actually feel the need to turn it down. I was definately never gonna get too warm.

    I suspected vacuum problems last winter, but I'm at a loss when it comes to anything vacuum related. For a guy with neck and back problems, laying upside down in a truck cab to work under the dash is a REAL pain.

    I know the air coming out of the heater is over 110*F because it maxed out our thermometer. Apparantly those things aren't calibrated to go any higher because by then you're dead. Guess I'd need an oven thermometer to get readings. I don't know what the target heat is though.

    Maybe I'll just go HillBilly on it and do something like mount a wood burning stove in the bed and vent the heat into the cab. It might give me that relaxed cabin feeling on the way to work.

  16. #16
    Moderator/Life Member Moderator
    Sr. Forum Member
    Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Philo, OH
    Posts
    5,665
    Rep Power
    30
    I had a '71 Plymouth Fury (dual heater cores..all of them had two) and that was the only vehicle I ever had that you could not hold your hand in front of the heater vent at will.....the Plymouth put out enough heat to make you cringe after 20-30 seconds.

    Every other vehicle I had could not do that.....I didn't test all of them, but you get my point.

    I'll try to find some vacuum information and post it tomorrow.......The V.P. debate is on, and I'd like to see Cheney hand Edwards his candy @$$..........

    Roy
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

  17. #17
    Moderator/Life Member Moderator
    Sr. Forum Member
    Roy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Philo, OH
    Posts
    5,665
    Rep Power
    30
    Troy: Any update on you heater issues?

    Roy
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

  18. #18
    Life Members Ohio 4x4 Life Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    fourxfanatictroy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Elida, OH
    Posts
    553
    Rep Power
    18
    No, I haven't had any time to tinker and subsequently cuss.

    Overtime at work just started back up for me in a big way this week. Long days / 7days a week. I couldn't find time before, now who knows when I'll get to it.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Cooling Issues
    By tbshakie in forum Jeep
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 07-16-2005, 10:59 PM
  2. Cooling system advice
    By Roy in forum Mechanic's Corner
    Replies: 34
    Last Post: 07-01-2005, 10:38 AM
  3. Replies: 5
    Last Post: 10-04-2004, 08:58 AM
  4. Cooling
    By BR in forum Mechanic's Corner
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-17-2003, 10:50 AM
  5. Ford F150 Exhaust System
    By imported_Anonymous in forum Ford
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-09-2003, 10:47 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •