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Thread: axel question 76 k10

  1. #1
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    axel question 76 k10

    i just bought some new 36 in swampers for my 76 k10 long bed
    i am working on getting some d60 but currently i have a d44 and a 12bolt w 3:73 gears
    i was wondering if the 1/2 tons will hold up till i can get the d60s if i leave the diff open,i pretty much do mostly mudruns anyway but some trail rides i do have a good smart foot lol. i was just wodering if i should expect to break somthing all the time or just occosionally
    thanks for your time and info

    see you on the trail ( hopfully) lol

  2. #2
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    yes you will break stuff, but it should be liveable for a while. You are less likely to break stuff if your diffs are open, but by having open diffs you have to beat on stuff a lot harder which leads to more breakage. Having a smart foot will be the key here. if you trust yourself, lock them anyway and have fun. Just carry an extra set of shafts. Thats what i did on my K5 (44 front, 14 bolt rear) on 37's. I locked the front to be more capable and as a result have went through a set of shafts (popped a u-joint on the drivers side (cap backed out, needed more penitration on the tack welds) and snapped a short side inner shaft where it necks down at the carrier. but i had spares ready to go.

    in sum, lock them anyway. weld the rear, put an aussie or a slightly used lunchbox locker in the front and have fun. you are going to have a lot more fun with them locked then you ever will with an totally open vehicle. Be smart and know when to call for the tow strap. Just spend the time to get some spare shafts (and know how to install them) before you come out.
    Paul

    1976 CJ 5 on 37s
    1984 CJ 7 on 36's
    1993 GMC K3500 6.5 Turbo Diesel

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    hey thaks for the info i was thinking if locking the rear as a start any way
    i have already been looking for some shafts for spares would it be worth puting some goog u joints ctm or lonfield on some oe shafts
    abd yeah i know how to change it all

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    Dont bother. A high quality spicer or other high quality stock style aftermarket u-joint is all you need. Reserve the high $$$ joints for aftermarket shafts if you end up going that route.

    Quote Originally Posted by mudgobs View Post
    i have already been looking for some shafts for spares would it be worth puting some goog u joints ctm or lonfield on some oe shafts
    Paul

    1976 CJ 5 on 37s
    1984 CJ 7 on 36's
    1993 GMC K3500 6.5 Turbo Diesel

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    I pretty much agree with everything said so far, just a couple points:

    - keep in mind that the stock axles are 30+ years old, and therefore have more fatigue on them then new parts would

    - I would highly recommend putting in a fresh set of Spicer u-joints in the front shafts (unless you have done this recently). Also keep an eye on them to make sure the caps aren't walking off (the c-clips are still there, and maybe even drawing a line on the cap to the axle yoke so you can see if they are spinning).

    - keep a close eye as to how far you have the front tires turned when getting on the gas. you lose strength in the front u-joints the farther they are turned...best idea is to try to keep the front tires as straight as possible when getting on the gas
    Brad
    '90 Blazer - 6.2 diesel, 700r4, Dana 60, 14 bolt, locked, 39.5" Super Swamper TSLs, winch, rollcage, yada, yada, yada......

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    im looking for a dana 60 becous of the same problems im a master of quick axle shafts changes. pick up all the ones you can and use good ujoints those autozone ujoints suck. the 12 bolt rear will last for a while and look for a 14 bolt full flote there easy to find if you dont drive it on the road i wold weld the spider gears in the rear

  7. #7
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    i do drive it on the road still a lil bit
    when i get the 14 bolt i will weld it up
    thanks for the info guys

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