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Thread: 84 Cj7

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    Lifer Ohio 4x4 Life Member
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    84 Cj7 gets a new set of axles -- maybe

    Well, I just got these in the mail today. More to come. -- Mike
    Last edited by sourpwr; 12-08-2007 at 02:41 PM. Reason: changed title

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    Nice, they look good.
    IT'S A JEEP THING.
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    Lifer Ohio 4x4 Life Member
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    Here are a few more parts to go with the first post.

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    ok, have to ask. what are those tings that look like giant allen wrenches?

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    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member bhawkin2's Avatar
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    What are the specs on the axles?? Did they come with the 3rd members??
    99 XJ Cherokee
    4.0L ,AW4 ,NP231
    HP30, turdy 5
    Bo Hawkins

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    Lifer Ohio 4x4 Life Member
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    The things that look like allen wrenches are 7/8" allen wrenches. I bought one to keep and one to cut to use with my impact wrench. They are used to install the king pins -- the spec calls for 600 ftlbs torque.

    The housing is a Crossed Up offroad 609 housing with 3/8" thick tubes. It should be 64" WMS to go with the 14bolt SWR axle with DRW hubs on it (basically C&C 14 bolt.)

    I am still collecting parts.

    -- Mike

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    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member bhawkin2's Avatar
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    I checked there website those are not a bad price for the housings. Have you seen anyone run them yet??
    99 XJ Cherokee
    4.0L ,AW4 ,NP231
    HP30, turdy 5
    Bo Hawkins

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    Forum Admin/Ohio 4x4 Life Member Ohio 4x4 Member
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    Your mailman must compete on the Strongman circuit, if he was carrying those around in his bag.

    Nice axle, Mike.
    Steve
    98 RED TJ
    Web Wheeler

    "You cannot legislate the poor into freedom by legislating the wealthy out of freedom. What one person receives without working for, another person must work for without receiving. The government cannot give to anybody anything that the government does not first take from somebody else. When half of the people get the idea that they do not have to work because the other half is going to take care of them, and when the other half gets the idea that it does no good to work because somebody else is going to get what they work for, that my dear friend, is about the end of any nation. You cannot multiply wealth by dividing it."

    Dr. Adrian Rogers

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    Those C's look insane! What kind of steering and locker setup are you going with?

    I'm looking forward to this build.

    EDIT:

    For brakes in my 1-ton setup, I'm running Chevy 3/4 ton single piston calipers front and rear. Up top, I'm running the stock YJ booster, '78 Mercury Marquis master cylinder, and a ZJ proportioning valve. The brakes feel perfect. I can lock the 37's up, no problem.

    Just throwing this out there because this is something you'll need to address with your new setup.
    Last edited by Knoxville; 10-19-2007 at 10:04 AM.
    -Brent
    '89 YJ - 4.0L/AW4/231/HP60/60/37's

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    Super Moderator Ohio 4x4 Member
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    Pretty cool Mike!

    You will have to post up some specs on the build up as you get time!

    Steve
    Steve Stroud
    1987 Ford Samurai "Junkyard Dog"
    14 bolt rear welded / Hp 60 front air locker / 5.38 gears
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    H1 Double Beadlocked Rims

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    Looks good Mike. I assume those are Dedenbear C's based on talking to you a while back. A assume that you are ebaying the front Currie 9" setup?

    I still don't understand the dually hub part of the rear 14 bolt. I would figure that a stock single rear wheel 14 bolt would be around 64" WMS. My last assumption is that you are planning to run either hummer beadlocks or another wheel with 5+ inches of backspacing?
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

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    Looks interesting...so a 609 in the front and a 14-bolt in the rear? What tires you are going to be running?

    So based on this pattern you will be installing Rockwells next year?

    Roy - forget the details, but certain combination of 14-bolt housing widths and hubs (which have different widths) can net you a narrower than stock 14-bolt.
    Brad
    '90 Blazer - 6.2 diesel, 700r4, Dana 60, 14 bolt, locked, 39.5" Super Swamper TSLs, winch, rollcage, yada, yada, yada......

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    so what did that houseing costed you shipped?

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    Lifer Ohio 4x4 Life Member
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    I am still deciding upon a lot of the details. I was pissed that my front U-Joint let loose at Furnace so decided that I might as well step up. I would have kept the rear axle since it is already 35spline 9 inch, but is 4" narrower than I really want. It seams hard to come by 2" 5x5.5 to 8x6.5 spacers. The 14bolt will hopefully be cheap. I should also be able to reuse my existing rear third member to offset the cost of the 14bolt build.

    Right now the plans include -- waggy fronts and YJ rear springs. Maybe push the wheelbase a total of 3 or 4 inches.

    WMS to be 64" front and rear.

    Right now spool front and rear, since I already have the front third member with spool. If I change gearing then maybe a detroit front/rear.

    I keep thinking about something near 40" for tires, but I am just not sure.

    The inner Cs are SOLID brand. They are big. The front will probably get alloy shafts inner and outer with 35 spline.

    To better understand the 14 bolt, checkout the 14 bolt bible on Pirate.


    Brent, I'll probably hit you up for brake ideas on the front end. I am still debating between the 15" rotors and 3/4ton calipers and the stock 1 ton rotors and 1 ton calipers.
    Later.
    Mike

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    Lifer Ohio 4x4 Life Member
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    I've ordered a few more parts and started work on both axles.

    The front axle has the knuckles installed and is now waiting to go into the Jeep. All that remains to be purchased for the front are the inner/outer axle shafts, steering arms, brakes, and lockouts.

    Steering will be 1 1/4 DOM with Chevy 1 ton TREs. I ended up buying the wrong TRE ends at NAPA last week. So I had to return them. FYI. Autozone has the best price on the Chevy TREs about $21. Same part number as NAPA. I would have finished the TieRod this weekend, but Jegs did not have the DOM in the size that I needed, so I worked on the 14 bolt instead.

    Autozone also sells the Timkin bearings for the 14 bolt at about $45/side. They have the Chevy 3/4ton 8 lug rotor for rear disk brake applications for $28/side.

    I spent most to of this weekend playing with the rear axle. I cut the old shock hangers off, but left the old spring plates. I used a sawsall to cut the old brackets off and went through about 6 blades. The welds were a pain to cut.

    I took the old Single rear wheel hubs and drums off and replaced with the DRW hubs that I purchased. This left me with a 63" WMS which is perfect for matching the front axle.

    I won't get around to doing much for a couple of weeks.

    Does anyone know how to clean up the outside of the 14bolt? I have used a wire brush, flap disk, and power washer. None of them have been ideal. The housing was pretty dirty and has a lot of paint/rust flakes that I would like to remove. Any suggestions would be helpful.

    Does anyone want some SRW hubs and drums -- Free??

    For those looking for 1/2 -20 bolts Andersons sells them. Neither Lowes, Home Depot, or Tractor Supply had them.



    -- Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by sourpwr View Post
    Does anyone know how to clean up the outside of the 14bolt? I have used a wire brush, flap disk, and power washer. None of them have been ideal. The housing was pretty dirty and has a lot of paint/rust flakes that I would like to remove. Any suggestions would be helpful.-- Mike
    I'd use a "wire wheel" on a 1/2" electric drill. I've used these to clean up crusty engine blocks. They work well. I'd buy a couple different sizes of wire wheels. You should be able to use a large one on most of it. The smaller ones would come in handy around the shock mounts, spring perches, webbing in the center of the diff, etc. Periodically flip the switch on the drill from forward and reverse for the best results (the wires are flexible). Grab some safety glasses, get the axle where it is easy to rotate (jackstands), pull up a chair and have at it.

    Roy
    Large: 1978 Ford F-250
    469 V-8: 340 HP, 525 TQ
    C6, NP-205, 4.10's, 42" TSL's on 15x8's
    D60: Detroit, 35 spline Alloy Shafts w/ Longfield Superjoints, Dedenbear Knuckles, Drive Flanges.
    1410 Driveshafts, D70-U Welded, 12K Winch, OBA.

    Small: 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 700 4x4

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    Quote Originally Posted by sourpwr View Post
    Does anyone know how to clean up the outside of the 14bolt?
    "Dewalt Full Cable Twist Wheel Brush" for your grinder
    http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...930&lpage=none

    It will rip anything that isn't solid steel off.. just be real careful with it.
    -Brent
    '89 YJ - 4.0L/AW4/231/HP60/60/37's

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    Lifer Ohio 4x4 Life Member
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    I actually bought one of the dewalt brushes. I did not use it because it just looks evil... I'll try it in a couple of weeks when I get another chance.

    I picked up a diff cover, spring perches, and brake brackets from RuffStuff offroad tonight. Nothing like new toys.

    Thanks for the suggestions.

    Mike

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    I'd have it sandblasted. I had 2 dana 44's sandblasted in the past, think it cost me like $75 dollars. Its gets all the nooks and crannies, its the only way to go. I got the # out of the phone book, guy on the southwest side of columbus did it, not a guy I'd introduce to my family, but he did a great job. Forget the name...but he's in the yellow pages. Hope that helps

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    If you want to sand blast yourself, check out Harbor Freight on the west side of Columbus, or on the north end. They have a small personal sand blaster for like $15 on sale, or $20 not on sale.
    IT'S A JEEP THING.
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    Lifer Ohio 4x4 Life Member
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    I think that I have everything that I need for the front and rear axles except the rear brakes, rear wheel studs, lug nuts, and gears for both ends.

    I decided to try the 3/4 ton brakes up front and would like to use the eldorado brakes in the rear. I bought a diff cover, spring perches, u-bolts, and brake brackets from RuffStuff specialties. I ended up getting a set of used 35 spline drive flanges from 85Jeepn (great shape), 3/4 ton brakes and rotors from advanced auto, moser 4340 front shafts from CrossedUp offroad, and 4340 35spline outers (from complete offroad for $90/piece). I bought the front brake brackets on Ebay. I think that was the rest of the stuff.

    I worked on the front axle a little this morning. I put the 3/4 ton rotors on the dana 60 hubs. The lug nuts had a slightly bigger shoulder than the 3/4 ton rotors were intended to use. I ended up drilling each wheel stud hole to a 7/8" diameter about 1/2 way through the rotor. This let the wheel stud sit flush.

    Next I started on the steering. I bought some 1.25 DOM because the vendor reported that it was the correct size for 7/8 -18 tpi TREs. Well, it was not... I needed to bore the tubing to 53/64". This was a real pain in the ass with only using a hand drill and a vise mounted to 4x8 blocks. I then tried to tap the tubing and realized that I was in way over my head. I will end up buying a Tie-Rod and Draglink. I may do some more this afternoon, who knows...

    I was working to finish cleaning up the 14 bolt a few weekends ago. I needed to remove the oil fill plug from the center section. Well, it was stripped out, so I figured that I would drill it out and use an easyout on it. Well, it is easier said than done. The easy out just would not budge the fill plug. I used PB Blaster and a propane torch. So now I have a 14 bolt with a fill plug with a hole in it that won't come out. I might try removing it again today.

    Does anyone know anyone locally that could build a tie rod and drag link? I want to use chevy 1ton TREs.

    Heck, if anyone knows a good shop that is taking business and wants to put all my pieces together, let me know.

    -- Mike
    Last edited by sourpwr; 12-08-2007 at 02:49 PM.

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    Lifer Ohio 4x4 Life Member
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    I ended up buying another 14 bolt from 84Jeepn (justin). It was a short 4 hour round trip on Sunday to pick up a 20year old used axles. The new axle appears to be in better shape than the first, but I have yet to take it apart. I'll probably start on that Thursday or Friday.

    I ended up buying steering parts from Poison spyder and am currently waiting for delivery. I bought 1.5" Dom and weld on threaded fittings. It was just too hard to try to make it out of 1.25" dom.

    Tonight I got the front axle out and put 1 side together. I wanted to ensure that all of the parts would go together Ok and I wanted to get a final measurement on WMS. The front axle will be about 65" WMS when all said and done. Pictures of the last couple of work days are below.

    -- Mike

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    Lifer Ohio 4x4 Life Member
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    more

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    Last edited by sourpwr; 12-12-2007 at 10:20 PM.

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    Lifer Ohio 4x4 Life Member
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    Last one.

    The inner axle shafts are from Moser. The joint looks like pure beef. Right now, I plan to use regular spicer U-Joints -- I have to save money somewhere.

    The pictures above and below show
    -- Ruff Stuff rear DWR hub on SRW axle disk brake bracket.
    -- 1 ton rotor vs 3/4 ton rotor
    -- drilling the rotor for the shoulder of the wheel stud
    -- 1.25 Dom and the 53/64 drill bit used to bore the DOM. This did not work well...
    -- Front Axle with passenger side put together.
    -- 77 k20 calipers and rotors
    -- Ebay Dana 60 15 inch caliper brackets -- Note to self -- the spacer goes between the bracket and spindle.
    -- Moser inner axle and 4340 (?) outer axle vs chevy dana 44 outer axle

    Later,
    Mike
    Last edited by sourpwr; 12-12-2007 at 10:31 PM.

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    Nice buildup Mike. I'm excited to see the end product. I think it might be bigger axles for me next. Gotta finish one thing a time though. What happened wit the DOM and the 53/64 drill bit?

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    Lifer Ohio 4x4 Life Member
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    In order for the 1.25 DOM to work with Chevy TREs, it had to be bored to 53/64" before threading to 7/8 -18 tpi. I only have hand tools. I was able to bore about 2 - 3 inches deep, but then when I tried to thread the tap would get sideways.

    I just did not have the correct tools.

    Using the bigger tubing and the welded tubing ends will work out a little better. I had decided to just use right hand threads if I was going to use the 1.25 DOM because the left hand tap was so expensive.

    -- mike

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    Looking good, Mike!

    Think you will be ready to shake it out on the January ride to Tar Hollow?
    Steve Stroud
    1987 Ford Samurai "Junkyard Dog"
    14 bolt rear welded / Hp 60 front air locker / 5.38 gears
    4-link upper triangulated rear/ 3-link front
    5.0 Ford/C6/bw 1356 doubler/np205 twin sticked
    38.5 TSL SX
    H1 Double Beadlocked Rims

    "Don't hate the player......Hate the game!!!!!"

    "I live my life one trail at a time!" ............Ben Stroud

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    Quote Originally Posted by sourpwr View Post
    I ended up buying steering parts from Poison spyder and am currently waiting for delivery. I bought 1.5" Dom and weld on threaded fittings. It was just too hard to try to make it out of 1.25" dom.
    Hey Mike, the build is looking real good! 8)

    I was going to suggest weld-in insert option, but I figured you saw enough of my steering threads that you were aware of it. Tapping 1.25" DOM is HARD without the right tools. The weld-in inserts will be a breeze for you. Since you are doing the weld-in inserts now, you may want to consider getting left-hand stuff too. I've ran all right-hand stuff before, and it is a PITA to get the steering just right.
    -Brent
    '89 YJ - 4.0L/AW4/231/HP60/60/37's

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    Administrator/Web Wheeler Ohio 4x4 Life Member
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    I do like having the left and right hand threads on the adjustable arms I just installed, makes it easy to adjust the length without taking them all the Jeep. I understand about needing the correct tools for the job at hand. These days I'm really looking at press and drill press.

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