Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 41

Thread: Broncobustin'

  1. #1
    Junior Member Jr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    45
    Rep Power
    0

    Broncobustin'

    Ive got my B2 listed in my other thread, and The way it looks right now is pretty pitiful. Opinions anyone?

    1988 Ford Bronco II XLT
    2.9L V6 smallblock engine 177ci
    Mitsubishi FM145 5spd MOD tranny/ not sure what T-case
    Dana 28 front/ Ford 7.5 rear
    stock...
    everything

    Ill leave a post tomorrow with all my performance mods.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Lancaster
    Posts
    2,311
    Rep Power
    20
    it has a 1350 transfercase.

    Weld the rear, and cut the fenders to fit 31-33" tires. put a set of 4.10 gears in there and call it good.

  3. #3
    Junior Member Jr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    45
    Rep Power
    0
    Pretty much everything needs rebuilt and im not even messing around w/ the t-case. I want the 44's or 60's because Ill grenade both axles with my lead foot, even with an engine so enimic it came from the factory 140hp/160ftlbs and averages 190000 later at 90/110. The tub and fenders both need replaced, because my baby is a 50$ rustbucket. I also need the lift because my dad for some reaon wont let me cut fender and rear quarterpanels. By the end of my Broncobustin experience Il have dumped an estimated $1450 in it.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Lancaster
    Posts
    2,311
    Rep Power
    20
    I give up on you. someone else can answer your questions

  5. #5
    Junior Member Jr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    45
    Rep Power
    0
    Sorry, but most of what I want to do is going to be trumped by my dad, and I could use your suggestion if he weren't so stubborn. this would be alot easier if he would let me do things my way. Id like nothn more than to cut the fenders and fit my tires with some beefy axles with 4.10's, but my stock setting is 3.27 and dad thinks we shuold "do it right" if at all. Ill probably buy a longbed ranger for stability, and do just that. Im thinking ext. cab SXT style.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Lancaster
    Posts
    2,311
    Rep Power
    20
    Well, when he insist you lift it, so you cna flop it over a hillside and you are laying in the hospital he'll realize thats not the right way. BII's are awful top heavy, I watch lifted ones flop over day in and day out, I've built them, I've broke them, and I know what works and what doesnt. I'd go with a simple 2" lift if anything. Toss spacers up front, and either blocks, shackle, or explorer leafs in the rear.

    Even if you lift it a few inches to be able to propperly tuck the tires (anything bigger than a 31) its going to need cut. You can trim the falred part of the front fender off and roll it back under so it looks good. With that done you can run a 33" tire at stock hieght on 15x8 wheels with no rubbing on anything. It'll keep it low and stable. anything more than a bigger radiator, and some good fans to coll the 2.9 is most likely a waste of cash, my engines ran at about 190 with dirty radiators and stock fans. I only over heated mine when romping on it for long periods of times which happens regardless of the cooling system.

    Here are a couple photos of my junkers when I had them.





    Thats on 33's with cut fenders. the only non stock suspension component was 4door explorer leaf springs.

    Here is the other one.
    This one has 2" front spacer, 2" block, and 34" tires with VERY little trimming.


  7. #7
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member bhawkin2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    West Jefferson,Ohio
    Posts
    1,111
    Rep Power
    16
    Was'nt the 2nd one your GF's?????
    99 XJ Cherokee
    4.0L ,AW4 ,NP231
    HP30, turdy 5
    Bo Hawkins

  8. #8
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Lancaster
    Posts
    2,311
    Rep Power
    20
    yep

  9. #9
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member bhawkin2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    West Jefferson,Ohio
    Posts
    1,111
    Rep Power
    16
    Thought I remembered correctly.
    What happen to it??
    99 XJ Cherokee
    4.0L ,AW4 ,NP231
    HP30, turdy 5
    Bo Hawkins

  10. #10
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Lancaster
    Posts
    2,311
    Rep Power
    20
    Polks Scrap Iron and Metal gave me a price I couldnt refuse


    Old 2.8 slowly wore itself out, and the body was falling off of the frame. Which was also the demise of my BII.

    A 2.8 can only take so much I guess

  11. #11
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member bhawkin2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    West Jefferson,Ohio
    Posts
    1,111
    Rep Power
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by OffRoadOhio View Post
    A 2.8 can only take so much I guess
    My brother an I had a 83 Ranger 2wd with a 2.8 an it had a very rough life an it still ran when we scrapped it but it was definately on its last leg. It was a great little truck though.
    99 XJ Cherokee
    4.0L ,AW4 ,NP231
    HP30, turdy 5
    Bo Hawkins

  12. #12
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Lancaster
    Posts
    2,311
    Rep Power
    20
    Both of mine still "ran" when I stripped and junk them, but they had less power than my lawnmower. And with the bodies being so beat up/rusted it was easier/more cost effective, to junk em. or atleast I thought. Havent had a dedicated trail rig since then.

  13. #13
    Member Jr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    71
    Rep Power
    13
    I've wheeled with both these rigs...and let me tell ya..for stockdrivetrains..thats the best bet..33's and budget lift..fender trim..and GO...not top heavy like my sploder..short..narrow..quick..nimble...great trail rigs..

  14. #14
    Junior Member Jr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    45
    Rep Power
    0
    Yeah, I love my BBroncoII. For a D28, with the special dual control arm linkakge, is a great little prerunner, but I do want lockers instead of welding em'. Just for winter purposes, the D28 isnt beefy enough to stand up to trail abuse with a loker, anyone know where to get a kkit?

  15. #15
    Super Moderator Ohio 4x4 Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    SES's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    "Springhole", Ohio
    Posts
    3,875
    Rep Power
    30
    Quote Originally Posted by BRONCOBUSTER View Post
    Yeah, I love my BBroncoII. For a D28, with the special dual control arm linkakge, is a great little prerunner, but I do want lockers instead of welding em'. Just for winter purposes, the D28 isnt beefy enough to stand up to trail abuse with a loker, anyone know where to get a kkit?


    In the snow a welded rear will be much more predictable than an automatic locker, PERIOD!

    Also, what kkit are you talking about??????? (If you can't even put forth enough effort to check your spelling and grammar, what makes you think anyone wants to spend a bunch of time giving you advice?)

    Go back up there and read what you wrote.....You ramble, make statements, then ask a question at the end that is unintelligible......Of which you will eventually refute any advice given to you......

    Let me give you some advice.

    Ask a question, but be clear what you are asking. Don't waste time trying to show us all how much you know.....Just ask what your question is, and be open minded enough to accept the advice. There are some very talented people on this board who are willing to share what they know, but it requires some effort on your part, as well.

    If on the other hand you already know what you are going to do, don't ask questions and then spend a bunch of time arguing with everyone till you get the answer you want.

    Before you fire off some emotional response, stop and think about what I have said for a few minutes. This will be a good test of your maturity and how long you stay on this board, as to how you respond.
    Last edited by SES; 05-25-2007 at 09:11 AM.
    Steve Stroud
    1987 Ford Samurai "Junkyard Dog"
    14 bolt rear welded / Hp 60 front air locker / 5.38 gears
    4-link upper triangulated rear/ 3-link front
    5.0 Ford/C6/bw 1356 doubler/np205 twin sticked
    38.5 TSL SX
    H1 Double Beadlocked Rims

    "Don't hate the player......Hate the game!!!!!"

    "I live my life one trail at a time!" ............Ben Stroud

  16. #16
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Lancaster
    Posts
    2,311
    Rep Power
    20
    WTF is a Dual Control Arm Linkage? That last thing I remember calling the front suspension was Twin Traction Beam, or TTB, not much special about it, ford used that same design on 2wd vehicles many years before.

    The d28 is very weak, but with a locker, or welded dif and the caps welded in SOLID ( not tack welded) it will hold 33"s just fine with the power a 2.9 can dish out. I ran mine for over a year without busting any shafts after I welded the caps in. I tried spot welding, and leaving them unwelded, I was breaking them on 31's open then.

  17. #17
    Forum Admin/Ohio 4x4 Life Member Ohio 4x4 Member
    Sr. Forum Member

    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Westerville, OH
    Posts
    3,277
    Rep Power
    30
    I am over here....
    Steve
    98 RED TJ
    Web Wheeler

    "You cannot legislate the poor into freedom by legislating the wealthy out of freedom. What one person receives without working for, another person must work for without receiving. The government cannot give to anybody anything that the government does not first take from somebody else. When half of the people get the idea that they do not have to work because the other half is going to take care of them, and when the other half gets the idea that it does no good to work because somebody else is going to get what they work for, that my dear friend, is about the end of any nation. You cannot multiply wealth by dividing it."

    Dr. Adrian Rogers

  18. #18
    Member Forum Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    181
    Rep Power
    13
    ok, I'm gonna hi jack this thread a bit.

    How in the hell is the TTB axle setup?
    never looked at one close and I've always wondered.I'm just curious as to how they articulate the axleshafts, it's a great mystery to me.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Lancaster
    Posts
    2,311
    Rep Power
    20
    At least your question is logical and will come with no argument afterwards.

    the TTB is basicaly a solid axle cut in 1/2. There is a center pivot. The right side axle has a joint at the pivot and thats how it is able to articulate.

  20. #20
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member bhawkin2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    West Jefferson,Ohio
    Posts
    1,111
    Rep Power
    16
    I was going to try an describe how it worked,but Donnie nailed it I could'nt do better.
    99 XJ Cherokee
    4.0L ,AW4 ,NP231
    HP30, turdy 5
    Bo Hawkins

  21. #21
    Member Jr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Westerville
    Posts
    57
    Rep Power
    17
    If you don't drive your truck on the road, bought it for 50 bucks then just do what the second post said. Keep the top heavy sob practical with bigger tires and cut the fenders out. If it were me I would also beef up the rear springs a tad and call it a day. wtf?

  22. #22
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Lancaster
    Posts
    2,311
    Rep Power
    20
    keep the rear sway bar hooked up to keep the tuck limited, it'll help keep the springs around a tad logner. Or put sploder leafs in there as they are thicker

  23. #23
    Junior Member Jr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    45
    Rep Power
    0
    First of all, Im not trying to be a smartass know-it-all, and If my spelling isnt precise all the time, excuse me... and if My posts arent at all times coherent, then thats my bad, but I didnt ask for that verbal berating. Ive been away from the computer for a while, so I wasnt able to chat. But anyway, Ive gotten alot farther on my BII. And Ive realized my 2.9L is a total piece of trash, and is unrepairable. After calling around, Ive realised that dropping a 4.0L and scrapping the 2.9 is going to be alot cheaper than trying to rebuild it. I apologise for calling the TTB D28 different than its actual name, but Ive got it now. And dont take my posts as disrespect. As a newbie to the sport, I should listen to you guys and hold alot of respect for you, and I do. I like the ideas you've given me, and I have an idea of where Im going now. Im down at the technical center in Lisbon, Oh., and should be able to sneak a little work on It my dad wouldnt approve of without him noticing. One ? though.. If I welded the diffs instead of getting lockers, (which I plan to do) if I punched the gas, would it hurt my diffs at all?

  24. #24
    Junior Member Jr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    45
    Rep Power
    0
    I also have another question. How would I be able to level the rear end slightly? My rear end on my BII saggs, and gives it a little of a prerunner look, but Id like it leveled, and I was wondering if there was a cheap way to solve this problem. Maybe If I swapped some springs from an explorer, or gave it some shackles and blocks... My leaf springs that are currently on it cant even be defined as flat anymore, theyve surpassed a new level of flat. Worse than a pancake i tell you...

  25. #25
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Lancaster
    Posts
    2,311
    Rep Power
    20
    Foum must have been to dead, and this needed borught back I guess.

    Use either chevy lowering shackles, or explorer leafs with the BII main leaf.

    If your springs are already shot, the chevy shackle will make them worst overtime. Sploder leafs is the way to go.

  26. #26
    Super Moderator Ohio 4x4 Member
    Sr. Forum Member
    SES's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    "Springhole", Ohio
    Posts
    3,875
    Rep Power
    30
    Me smells a troll......
    Steve Stroud
    1987 Ford Samurai "Junkyard Dog"
    14 bolt rear welded / Hp 60 front air locker / 5.38 gears
    4-link upper triangulated rear/ 3-link front
    5.0 Ford/C6/bw 1356 doubler/np205 twin sticked
    38.5 TSL SX
    H1 Double Beadlocked Rims

    "Don't hate the player......Hate the game!!!!!"

    "I live my life one trail at a time!" ............Ben Stroud

  27. #27
    Junior Member Jr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    45
    Rep Power
    0
    thanks for the tips, but what about punching the gas with welded diffs when need be? will I grenade the axle or what?

  28. #28
    Member Forum Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    181
    Rep Power
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by BRONCOBUSTER View Post
    thanks for the tips, but what about punching the gas with welded diffs when need be? will I grenade the axle or what?
    are you an experienced welder?
    Do you have a 220V machine to do it with?

    Those two questions will tell you right there. It's not a task for the inexperienced welder. I would never think of welding my own diffs, simply beacuse I'm not that good with a welder yet.

    and don't weld the front, unless you like not steering on the trail.

  29. #29
    Senior Member Sr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Lancaster
    Posts
    2,311
    Rep Power
    20
    BII will steer just fine welded, I ran one like that for a long time.

    Rear will hold fine, front unless setup corretly will break almost every ride.

    do a search, and stop asking so many little questions, ALL of them so far ahve been answered in other post.

  30. #30
    Junior Member Jr. Forum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    45
    Rep Power
    0
    Thanks for that, I just didint want to break one or both of the axles in order to get out of the way or up a trail. I dont really think a 4.0 has that much torque anyway unles it is severely modified. Have any tips for swapping a 4.0 in before I do it? I'm not a very good welder, but I have a few family members that are.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •