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Thread: 79 CJ7 Project (Mild Trail Rig)

  1. #31
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    Continued: Shocks!

    With new found height I needed to measure for shocks.







    It actually moves around decent up front, the rear is not as flexible but it seems stable. Up front it cycles 8.5" of shock and the rear is only 3 but that has to do with geometry of shock mounting.

    Since I have the early short shock towers on the frame and the late model shock mounts on the axle tube I need to cut one of them off and either use the U-bolt mount style of the early CJ's or make some shock towers to extend the mount up.

    In the tests I did not rub at all flexed lock to lock thanks to the wide track axles. That was even without bump stops extended so that is also on the list of To-Do's.

    Most recently I pulled the rear leaves apart to remove the aluminum angle shims that had the pinion pointing at the T-case output and causing vibrations with my single U-Joint driveshaft. Pulling them seemed to help the drive vibrations but now I get some in reverse.. and without vibration now I can hear my pinion/carrier bearings growling. Sucks to pull a pair of axles that literally were babied for 70k miles to put in some slightly abused/neglected ones. Just Empty Every Pocket
    94 4runner SAS Elocked 35's "Fiona"
    97 F350 Powerstroke CCLB "Marge"
    79 CJ7 Rustomod

  2. #32
    LifeMember Ohio 4x4 Member
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    A must do trail ride for me every year is our Spring Novice Ride so I crammed some work in to get ready. This year however I had a longer trip to the ride. 380mi vs 50mi and did not have my trailer available so to utilize my new rear axle upgrade I thought I would give flat towing a try. Harbor Freight has cheap setups which work for me since I am towing junk... with junk...

    $70 of chinesium shaped like a tow bar which easily attaches to stock CJ bumpers. Also made a break away brake by attaching some 1/16" stainless cable to the E-brake pedal and running the cable out the front of the frame to attach to the tow vehicle. Some states require this feature and I didn't want some big module permanently attached to the Jeep... hopefully this satisfies the law?


    And to solve my overfueling when on the power valve I plugged one of the PVCR's in the carb to cut my power valve fuel in half. Definitely not the "right" way to do it but it did help a bit. Oddly this seems to have caused more fuel at the transition circuit just off idle...? I have to look into that further. PVCR's will get drilled out and replaced with 6-32 brass set screws drilled to provide similar flow to the 1 current PVCR that is open.


    Finally I made a Highlift Jack "mount" by welding some 1/2" bolts to the OE tire carrier since I could not bring myself to cut it down to fit inside the Jeep (60" version!). Plus having that weight inside the vehicle never excited me very much from a roll over perspective. Also added nyloc's behind the wing nuts for highway transport in case vibration loosened the wing nuts. I'd rather not have 50lbs of steel loose to hit a bus load of nuns or something.
    94 4runner SAS Elocked 35's "Fiona"
    97 F350 Powerstroke CCLB "Marge"
    79 CJ7 Rustomod

  3. #33
    LifeMember Ohio 4x4 Member
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    One issue I had was on the way to the trail ride while climbing a small hill I had one of my rear lockouts unlock. This hub was previously difficult to turn and required a wrench and driveshaft wiggling to engage (should have been a sign AND NEVER USE A WRENCH ON A HUB). I found that the "star nut" engagement washer that drives the hub locked when you turn the dial was bent and had cross threaded on the hub dial. Pictured is my hammered flat nut on the left Vs. a new star nut from Warn (provided free by Warn after telling them what I needed and explained their own product to them)


    This caused the hub to only partially lock and under different driving circumstances would have blown the hub apart. I was extremely lucky to not cause catastrophic damage. The real bad part would have been that these hubs are no longer being produced by Warn so lets go down the rabbit hole some.

    So in the late 90's-early 2000's Warn made full floating conversion kits for AMC 20's, Dana 44's, Dana 60's and a couple others. Around 06-08 Warn stopped producing these kits and sold the rights to Randy's Ring and Pinion. But to this day Randy's does not plan to produce these kits or parts for them.

    The kit for the AMC 20 uses Dana 44 style internal hubs and lockouts, unfortunately the spindle, Hub, and axle are all proprietary Warn parts for the kit. There is some suspicion that the hub may be similar to an early Bronco D44 but that is not confirmed. Also the axleshafts are chromoly with 29 spline at the diff (stock AMC 20) but 30 spline at the outer hub. This is great for strength BUT most(all) stock Dana 44 style lockout hubs are only 19 spline. Also shortly after being released Warn found that while driving standard lockouts can work their way unlocked due to variations in axle hub interfacing causing big issues.

    They released some drive slugs that could be used for people who wanted the ultimate strength but did not need to unlock the rear and updated lockout style hubs with a positive engagement ring inside of the wave spring and a setscrew on the dial portion to lock the hub in position.


    So the issue is that if parts break they are basically irreplaceable or have to be found used, but these kits are rather rare so good luck. BUT there are some alternatives, since the kit uses the Dana 44 internal style lockout, parts from other Premium hubs can be used and warn still offers a Dana 44 30 spline lockout for use with upgraded axleshafts that are 30 spline on the outers Warn part number 30165 I believe originally sold for the hub conversion kits for CJ's and later for the YJ and TJ kits as well. Internal parts for their super common 20990 19 spline Dana 44 hubs "should" work for the star nuts, and lockout body parts. Dana 44 30 spline drive slugs should work as well but I do see that Currie Axles produces a kit specifically for the old Warn setups but don't know any differences.

    The full float specific lockouts were part number 36655. I will show some broken down pictures and numbers for rebuild because I searched high and low to no avail and Warn was unhelpful since they were discontinued and I am not the original purchaser.

    Hub Body with pockets for setscrew to sit on either side of the mechanical stop (if someone has a standard internal D44 premium hub to disassemble I would be curious if they have this.)


    Warn's "Double Seal" setup with a standard O-Ring (Standard 126 size 3/32" O-Ring) and a semi special V-Ring for the outer most seal (Haven't found a readily available replacement but measures 2.25"ID X 2.5"OD x 3/32" Thick)



    Thrust washer (somewhat special Arbor spacer 1.5"ID x 2.0"OD x .02" Thick, I can't find ones with that OD and it is required to fit in the body) and circlip (1.4"ID x .05" Thick) to hold the dial into the body


    Assembled you can also see the added tube that sits inside the wave spring to force the hub locked instead of relying on spring tension.


    And finally the full float hubs had sealed screws to secure the hub into the wheel to keep oil/grease from leaking out when ran as open bath lubrication with the gear oil. The kits had an option to run open bath like a 3/4-1 ton truck or add a seal and pack the bearings with grease. When ran open bath these setups loved to leak and were a pain when you needed to work on something inside the hub. Bet you'll never guess how mine are setup... Yep open bath... The screws are 6-32 x 1.75" long and have standard 006 3/32" O-rings on them


    I need to tear both sides down for new wheel seals, bearings, and full seal replacement and will document here with part numbers. All the O-rings are available at McMaster Carr or other sources, I am still working on finding thrust washers and the special V-ring seal for the dial.
    94 4runner SAS Elocked 35's "Fiona"
    97 F350 Powerstroke CCLB "Marge"
    79 CJ7 Rustomod

  4. #34
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    Fun and games continued.

    After perching the CJ on the ledge of Powerline Hill on the novice ride I felt a new found desire for additional steel over my head in case things turned south with rubber side up.

    I whipped up a top holder so I could remove the old roll bar without having to store the top outside


    Removing the old roll bar wasn't bad, no stripped Torx bolts, only mild heat needed on nuts inside the wheel wells. But my Jeep while good by Ohio standards was met by the rust fairy on more than one occasion. Doesn't instill a good feeling about if I had needed to use the OEM roll bar.



    But at least the roll bar itself was sound... aside from the really poor welding accepted by AMC in the 70's. Also note the middle bolt I did not have to loosen to remove from the jeep. The 79 style roll bar only bolts through the rear quarter panels and the fender tops which actually is a blessing since the areas for my future B-Pillars to attach behind the front seats is solid. The later style roll bars mount there and typically rust that area out with the sandwiched unpainted metal.


    Next steps are replacing rusted metal on the fender tops and front footwells where the 6 point Poison Spyder cage will be attached. It will be tied into the frame in at least 4 points but I figure now is a good time to get solid metal in those areas.
    94 4runner SAS Elocked 35's "Fiona"
    97 F350 Powerstroke CCLB "Marge"
    79 CJ7 Rustomod

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